2005 Two Hands For Love or money Cane Cut Semillon Barossa Valley Late Harvest

2005 Two Hands For Love or money Cane Cut Semillon Barossa Valley Late Harvest

By Codey Foster

I’m always discovering and re-discovering brilliant little gems in our racks and on the shelves that our staff and our customers have forgotten in our frequent store rotations and floods of new wines. We like to keep things fresh but sometimes in the excitement of new wines grown on volcanoes or made in strange villages from unknown grapes—we lose track of the rare gems that we were so proud of last week. This is one of the gems on our shelves that I think we’ve kind of forgotten about for a while—a cane cut, late harvest Semillon from Barossa Valley. Two Hands cut the canes (most of the vine) off of Two acres of super ripe Semillon. They let the grapes, which are still attached to the vine, hang until water had evaporated from them and they had become raisons containing super concentrated juice and sugars. The raisons were pressed and the result is one of the richest Sauternes-like desert wines we’ve ever tasted.

In the glass this raison wine shows a deep orangey gold with almost some reds filling in at the heart of the wine.

On the nose it is dense with buttery honey, apricot mango, pineapple, quince, green tea, orange, and butterscotch. The descriptors are abundant but only appropriately so, because the complexity is undoubtedly present.

On the palate this Semillon is shamelessly full bodied, rich, and bight. The acidity is there but the sugar levels are so high (a whopping 263 grams) that it isn’t at the forefront of this meaty and Sauternes-like nectar. Buttery fresh fruit dominates, however sweet crème brulee characteristics follow in the background with hints of French oak and spice.

The dessert pairings for this wine are obvious, but as for the less obvious, I think this wine could do so well with roasted meats and especially if a fruit chutney and/or sweet spice were involved. Also, fresh fruit all on its own is sure to be a win.

Oh, and it got 96 points from Wine Advocate with a projected drinking window of 10-15 years from release.

Cheers.

REGULAR: $63.99

SALE: $49.99

http://www.anconaswine.com/sku13546.html

2002 Lopez de Heredia Gravonia White Crianza

2002 Lopez de Heredia Gravonia White Crianza

By Codey Foster

Lopez de Heredia is the most traditional producer in all of Rioja and probably one of the most traditional producers in all of Spain. While so many of Rioja’s wineries have moved toward modern production and even the “Traditional” producers have adopted at least some technological advancement, Lopez de Heredia has stood still, as if frozen in time.

Evolution, (sometimes fortunately, and sometimes unfortunately) happens in wine regions as a process of natural selection. As time passes, winemakers tailor their product to suit the palate of the fickle and ever changing consumer—and the critic too. As a result, most wineries never settle. And while they may be able to make great wine, they may never be able to fine-tune their product in the same way that Lopez de Heredia has.

In the reality of modern day production, producers are in a rush to get their bottles out of the cellars and onto the shelves of liquor stores and wine shops. In contrast, Lopez de Heredia is one of the few wineries that believes in giving the wine as much time as it needs to develop and not shipping it out until it is absolutely ready to drink.

French oak? Overrated. Winery sanitation? Who cares? Controlled oxidation? Good stuff. It’s all part of the brilliant and time-tested recipe that Lopez uses to craft exceptional wines even in dismal vintages.

And while there are plenty of other winemakers that make ample and indulgent versions of traditional red Rioja, to my knowledge, Lopez is just about the only producer making truly traditional white Rioja. And these wines are some of the most developed, complex, and thought-provoking white wines that I’ve ever tasted. And the reds? They’re extraordinarily complex, textbook examples of Traditional Rioja—a true testament to what Tempranillo is capable of.

As it turns out we’ve brought in a handful of wines from Lopez, both red and white and I think they are some of the finest wines we’ve got, despite being exceptionally affordable. I figured I’d start the introduction by reviewing the 2002 white Crianza—a wine that has changed the way I think about white wine all together.

I’ll start off by pointing out that 2002 was, well, a pretty lame vintage in Rioja. Late rains in combination with a generally short growing season spelled out small and low quality yields for some bodegas. Despite an unfavorable vintage, however, Lopez de Heredia somehow managed to come up with this masterpiece—a feat that I’d imagine is an offspring of both its winemaking and the vintage. In less favorable vintages, reserve grapes that would typically be used in greater wines can be declassified and as a result more basic wines end up incorporating better fruit from more renowned vineyard plots.

In the glass this white Crianza shows a deep golden honey colored hue.

On the nose it is spectacularly complex and admittedly somewhat oxidative. Fresh apple juice fruit is followed by rich nutty notes of almonds and cashews, with dried orangey fruit filling in on the back palate beside baked apple, spice, and a yeasty Fino quality with a hint of brininess.

On the palate the Crianza delivers rich, full-bodied, and with spectacular acidity. It’s not hard to imagine that this wine is 10 years old, but I look with awe at the grace at which it has aged, and the story it tells. Dense notes of complex raw honey comb resonate through the fruit and the picture is framed by quality American Oak—Appalachian-harvested American Oak, that I might mention is imparted to the wine through barrels handcrafted in Lopez de Heredia’s own workshop.

At the table, I couldn’t even begin to draw boundaries for this wine. It exemplifies the acidity to pair with fish, the flavor profile for Manchego, and meaty secondary development, oak tannin, and body to stand up to the right red meats. I think you will find that it is spectacularly versatile while remaining incredibly indulgent all on its own.

$29.99--$26.09 in a mixed case. Can you believe that?

Wine Review: Chamard Vineyards Estate Reserve Chardonnay 2007

Chamard Vineyards Estate Reserve Chardonnay 2007

By Codey Foster

Sometimes at work I get patronized for so animatedly supporting the Connecticut wine industry. And some of this critisizm is justified and understandable. As a state, we sure do produce more than our fair share of ordinary white hybrid blends (generally carrying a proprietary name referencing some romantic/scenic image located, or that used to be located on the vineyard property). And I hate to stereotype but sometimes stereotypes ring true in real life situations and this might be one of those situations. I’m not going to delve too deeply into my feelings on local wine, as I have before--but as wine people, I think it’s an important thing for us to be thinking about. Of course, I understand it’s a little easier to be thinking about local Chardonnay when you live in the Cote de Beaune rather than the Cote de Fairfield—but that’s a whole other conversation all together.

In any case, what I’m really getting at is that there are some select gems produced in and around Connecticut and the Chamard Estate Chardonnay is, for me, the first one that comes to mind.

For this particular bottling, I’m pretty sure they age 60% in new and used French oak barrels, with the final 40% being finished in stainless steel. I’m also fairly certain they use a touch of malolactic fermentation although I’m having trouble finding the exact details online. And while this bottling I generally explain as falling somewhere between New and Old World in style—they also make a second Chardonnay that isn’t available at the moment, but uses the exact inverse winemaking—that’s 40% French oak and 60% stainless. This more Old World version is the finest Connecticut wine I have ever tasted, and is a sure ringer for fine white Burgundy. Although, as I’ve found out in the past couple of years—all great wines eventually disappear and we can only hope that Chamard will decide to produce this elegant blend again (as I’m sure they are capable of). But back to the 2007 Estate Reserve Chardonnay.

On the nose the 2007 Estate Reserve brings fourth an ample balance of tree fruit, mineral, and subtle-sided oak that is neither overwhelming to the wine’s primary flavors, nor cloying in a buttery overoaked/over-malo’ed kind of way. Clean Chardonnay meets a pleasant oak framework—a combination spawned from soils appropriately mid-way between Burgundy and the California Coast.

On the palate it is surprisingly full bodied and robust. Although its mineral and fruit is more Cote de Beaune—its structure is more Maconais in style. Its French oak treatment is, once again, evident but not overdone.

Thanks to its ‘somewhere inbetween style’, when it comes to the dinner table (or picnic blanket), this Chamard Chard will be versatile and food friendly. Because of its acidity it will meet fish/shellfish with ease but as a result of its richness will also be able to stand up to more hearty dishes and cream sauces.

Pick it up from us for $19.99

Brunellos

Brunellos

By Codey Foster

This week we’re featuring Brunello—a muscular clone of Sangiovese that is known to produce some of the finest red wines in all of Tuscany. Despite Brunello’s reputation of being bold, extracted, concentrated and extraordinarily long-lived, it is often compared to Burgundy/Pinot Noir for its food friendliness and accessible soft tannins.

Brunello’s finest growing region is in Montalcino, where it produces wines that are dense in their youth and prime candidates for long-term cellaring. It really takes five or six years for most Brunellos to reach their prime and as a result—our 2006 and 2007s are just becoming drinkable while our 2003s and 2004s have really hit their stride.

For brilliant Brunello pairings look to roasted meats like veal, ham, and pork loin. Basic preparations are best—sea salt, fresh cracked pepper, and rosemary paired with a mushroom sautee and polenta fries would do wonders.

To name a couple of our Brunellos that we’re particularly excited about:

2006 Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino - A Fine, Cellar-Worthy Wine 

The ripeness of the vintage meets a classic sense of structure as this bold, full-bodied wine takes shape in the glass. It offers a virile, masculine expression of Sangiovese.  

 2007 Poggio Antico Altero Brunello di Montalcino - Dark & Concentrated 

Rich, powerful, extremely concentrated yet elegant and velvety. The silky and ripe tannins make it particularly smooth to the palate.

 2004 Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino Cerretalto - 98 Points Wine Spectator

"Very powerful and rich, with blackberry, licorice and light toasty oak. This has pure fruit. Turns exotic and decadent. Big and full-bodied, with dense, powerful tannins, but velvety and beautiful." ~(Wine Spectator)

Wine Review: Pesquera Tinto Fino 2009

Wine Review: Pesquera Tinto Fino 2009

By Codey Foster

I recently reviewed the 2008 Pesquera Crianza—a wine that I found to be incredibly complex, if a bit funky earthy/minerally in its young age. Well, if the 2008 Crianza is a bit young, the 2009 Tinto is just in its infancy and just on the fence of being uncorkable. Although, the 2009 Tinto didn’t manifest its youth in the same way the 2008 Crianza did—it did show incredibly dense, dark fruit (although with a fair amount of red fruit showing as well), and big structure and tannin. Its tannins, no matter how ripe and big, are delicate and focused, filling in on the back palate rather than overwhelming the drinker on the very attack. It is this winemaking execution that makes the Pesquera Tinto 2009 accessible in its youth but most definitely destined for greater things.

I’m not going to drone on about Pesquera for too long because I talked about this iconic Ribera del Duero Producer when I reviewed the 2008 Crianza, but I do want to point out that it is perhaps one of the only producers in the world using French, American, and Spanish oak—although I’m pretty sure this particular cuvee is more American oak oriented.

In the glass this Pesquera shows surprisingly red with darker shades of purple filling in.

On the nose, it is very red fruit/black fruit oriented showing black berry, currant, tart cherry and a classic Ribera del Duero earthiness that is so unabashedly and shamelessly Pesquera. The only wine that I’ve ever tasted that possessed an earthiness anything like this was the 2008 crianza—and I think that’s a true testament to Pesquera terroir.

On the palate the 2009 is dense and structured, as I mentioned earlier, but not unfriendly either. It is tight but very accessible while showing great potential for the near future, intermediate, and long term cellaring. Ripe red fruit, spice and scorched earthiness come through with stylish verve that will turn secondary brilliantly. Its American oak is quite present but well integrated and tremendously fruited.

Also, note that this particular Pesquera was simply more interesting after having been open a couple of days. Its oak character showed more punctuated and integrated and its fruit opened to become yet more decedant and rich. For near future drinking decant and allow it some time to do its thing. But a gem for sure. I’ll gab a couple for my cellar and hope to forget them for a while.

http://www.anconaswine.com/sku02774.html $39.99

Wine Review: 2010 Tikal Patriota Malbec/Bonarda

Wine Review: 2010 Tikal Patriota Malbec/Bonarda

By Codey Foster

Sometimes on Saturday afternoons I find myself walking around the store trying to figure out what I’m going to drink that weekend. Often times Thor, our other ‘wine guy’ is right there with me, and as a result I end up taking a lot of his recommendations home. I have to admit, I’m never disappointed with the wines that he gives me but one thing is for sure, I always know what I’m getting—a big bold red with incredible concentration, dense fruit, and (typically) longevity. This wine is one of ‘Thor’s Picks’. And it is no exception.

Although in the past year I’ve found myself shying away from Malbec, I’ve tasted some impressive examples of its lesser-known Argentine counterpart, Bonarda. It should be noted that the Bonarda grown in Argentina is in fact a different grape than the Bonarda that you hear about in Italy, Bonarda Piedmontese. Argentine Bonarda, also called Charbono in California, is a late ripening red that originates from Savoie, and is like Bonarda Piedmontese only in name and color. This particular wine showcases 60% Malbec and 40% Bonarda and sees a year in both French and American oak.

At its center this wine shows an inky purply/black.

On the nose it gives off intense aromas of black fruit, asphalt, and a subtle underlying peppery aroma. As the wine opened it showed more dried fruit and on the second day some subtle red fruit qualities became evident as well.

On the palate 2010 Tikal is incredibly dense, shamelessly young, and spectacularly new world. Dense blackberry, cassis, and plumb harmonize on a well-structured frame to make a wine that is monstrous and rich.

There is however composure here somewhere. This wine’s extracted structure balances its extracted flavors to create a drinking experience that is muscular but intelligent and well suited for your most hearty gastronomical pursuits—and by that I mean that this wine was made for one pairing, and one pairing only—steak. Cook it how you want, but meatier, juicier cuts will prevail over delicate ones, as will well-done plates over more rare preparations. And feel free to drink it on its own of course, but do so knowing that you’re walking down a dark alley. It might make you feel small.

Serious bang for your buck.

$19.99 at http://www.anconaswine.com/sku02637.html

Domaine Fourrier Exclusive Offers

Domaine Fourrier Exclusive Offers
By Codey Foster

In the past two decades Jean Marie Fourrier of Domaine Fourrier has emerged to be not only one of the finest winemakers in all of Gevrey-Chambertin but even in all of Burgundy. Jean Marie, however, would argue that fine winemaking isn't actually in the winemaker at all but in the land that it comes from, and in the winemaker's ability to put his own ego aside and allow the purity of the vineyard to be exemplified in the wine rather than the intent of the person making it. Fourrier does just that, using mostly used, neutral oak casks to allow slow and precise oxygenation of the wine without marring its purity with new oak tannins and flavor compounds.

I’m excited to be the first to tell you that we’re offering three amazing packages to showcase our favorite domaine in burgundy.

The first package which draws entirely from the 2009 vintage, offers a bottle of the rare and sought after Clos St. Jacques, along with two other incredible Premier Crus (Chambolle-Musigny Les Gruenchers, and Gevrey-Chambertin Champeaux) and Fourrier’s Vielle Vigne, and Bourgogne Blanc.

Over the years, Clos St Jacques has developed a reputation as an unofficial Grand Cru of the Cote de Nuits. As the story goes, at the time of vineyard classification, the Clos was owned by a vingeron that was widely unpopular among certain groups in Burgundy. As a result the Clos received a Premier Cru classification rather than the Grand Cru Classification it deserved. The Clos is famous for consistently producing wine at a Grand Cru level, and often times even more so than some of the lesser Grand Crus of Gevrey.

The second package offers the 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin Grand Cru, Griotte-Chambertin along with the same wine from the first package (excluding the Clos St. Jacques).

Located on the East side of the RN74, Griotte-Chambertin is the smallest of all 9 Gevrey Grand Crus and farmed by only four other producers. Fourrier owns a relatively substantial .26 hectares, and I say substantial only because the vineyard itself is only 2.7 hectares total and not one producer owns more than a single hectare.

These two packages are of special pertinence to me because 2009 was a particularly fine vintage for the Cote de Nuits, among the finest of the decade, and will provide a steadfast staple for Burgundy lovers as the following vintages, 2010 and 2011 were not as consistent and great wines will be fewer and further between.

The third package is our most limited and the one that I’m most excited about.

To highlight the incredible depth of Fourrier's winemaking over the past few vintages, we have held back small quantities of the Gevrey-Chambertin Vielle Vigne 2007, 2008, and 2009. Although the Vielle Vigne is Fourrier's most basic red wine, it is perhaps the most apt to represent his 'translucent' winemaking. Composed from selected vineyard sites throughout the village of Gevrey-Chambertin, the Vielle Vigne represents the terroir that makes it one of the finest Pinot Noir producing villages in the world. These wines will drink well for many years to come. Take advantage of this rare and unique opportunity now because supplies are very limited.

Fourrier Clos St Jacques Package:

http://www.anconaswine.com/sku02936.html $649.99

Fourrier Griotte-Chambertin Package:

http://www.anconaswine.com/sku02937.html#anchor_moreinfo $699.99

Fourrier 2007, 2008, 2009 Vertical Package:

http://www.anconaswine.com/sku02935.html $189.99

Good Drinking

Good Drinking

By Codey Foster

In a recent wine review I wrote that “In regards to my own personal taste, I find more and more that there are distinct lines between ‘what I like’, ‘what I think is good/well made’, and ‘what makes me think’. And although wines often span the gaps and overlap the space between these three realms—more often than not I’d prefer to drink a wine that makes me think even if I don’t consider it a great wine.”

This is something that I wanted to elaborate on because I think its one of those things that at least somewhat applies to everyone’s drinking experiences but is hardly ever discussed. Often times I find myself trying to break my wine experiences down into the simple terms of like/dislike but it’s hardly that simple. This is old news to most of us, I’m sure, but even us wine geeks are sometimes so poor at communicating how we feel about a wine that we fall into the good/bad, like/dislike trap and the real essence of a wine is lost in translation.

While pondering this, I’ve realized that most of my favorable wine experiences can be described in three different ways, and as I said in the prior post, they can be best categorized as ‘what I like’, ‘what I think is good/well made’, and ‘what makes me think’. I’ll try to make this black and white for you.

‘What I like’—These are wines that just taste good, are a pleasure to drink, and have me wanting to polish off the whole bottle. These are the wines that I indulge in, treat myself to, and savor. I appreciate them simply for their flavor profile and/or texture. The pleasure is on the palate and that pleasure is physical and tangible.

‘What I think is good/well made’—These are wines that I appreciate for their intent, execution, and composition. They are classy, stylistic, unflawed, and balanced. Compared to ‘what I like’ I’d be more apt to describe these wines as ‘beautiful’ rather than ‘delicious’, although I have encountered many wines that are both ‘what I like’ and ‘what I think is good/well made’. There’s huge overlap here, although, I insist they are in fact quite different.

‘What makes me think’—This is the most subjective of favorable outcomes I’ve experienced and probably the least common. It’s self explanatory, more or less. A wine can make you think, ignite conversation, and in extraordinary cases, leave you puzzled for weeks on end. In contrast, and more often than not, you will drink it and forget it. The kicker here is that both a well-made wine, and a poorly made wine can make you think. And both can be pleasurable. This pleasure however, is more cerebral than physical/tangible, and often lasts for a greater period of time. This is why I bother to taste new wines. I’ve got my standby go-to wines—and while they give me pleasure, taste good, and make me think—it’s mostly the experiences with wines that I’ve never tasted before that I find myself enthralled by. And that’s the greatest thrill I’ve encountered in all of my wine tasting career. 

Quilceda Creek 2007, 2008, 2009 Vertical

Quilceda Creek 2007, 2008, 2009 Vertical

Although I wish this were a wine review, sadly, it is not. I just wanted to make a quick post to let all of you blog readers know about the incredible offer that has become available online and in the store starting today. It’s a Quilceda Creek Vertical. We’ve got the 2007, 2008, and 2009 vintages bundled together for $574.99.

I usually don’t put a whole lot of stock in critical acclaim but it’s hard to deny that the Wine Advocate scores for these consecutive vintages are anything but impressive. The 2007 received 100 points, the 2008 99 points, and the 2009 99-100 Points.

Not only does this package offer a look into three spectacular vintages from Washington’s finest Cabernet Sauvignon producer, but it is also an obvious opportunity for investment and long-term cellaring. Grab yours while supplies last.

Full details and Critical Acclaim can be found on our website: http://www.anconaswine.com/sku02881.html

$574.99

If you're interested act now, because supply is extremely limited.

UPDATE: Unfortunately, we've just sold out of the 2007 Quilceda Creek which means that we're not able to offer the vertical anymore. The 2008 and 2009 are still available at:
http://www.anconaswine.com/sku01247.html
and
http://www.anconaswine.com/sku02880.html

Wine Review: 2008 Pesquera Crianza

Wine Review: 2008 Pesquera Crianza
By Codey Foster

When it comes to iconic Ribera del Duero producers, there is Vega Sicilia—arguably the greatest producer in all of Spain—and then there is Pesquera, Vega’s triple-oaked 100% Tempranillo little sister that, despite her inherent beauty, has never been as great and will never be as great as her legendary older sister.

In contrast to Vega Sicilia that only produces a Grand Reserva, a NV Grand Reserva Especial, and a second wine—Pesquera makes a full range of wines from its most basic Crianza (that’s the one I’m reviewing here) all the way up to its Grand Reserva “Janus”. 

I say “triple-oaked” (a term I’ve coined all on my own), because Pesquera uses American, French, and Spanish Oak. Why? I don’t know. While the use of Spanish oak isn’t all that uncommon in Ribera del Duero, and neither are French/American combinations, this is the first triple stack I’ve heard of. I’d guess Pesquera would say that three different woods help to impart complexity, balance, and precise oxygenation into the wines. And the 2008 Crianza is indeed complex and balanced—so maybe they’re onto something.

In the glass the 2008 Pesquera shows dense and inky although its hue is much more red than purple.

On the nose it shows signs of funky earth, huge minerality, and dense red and black fruit coinciding among complex aromas of animal, and spice. Punctuation of dill and vanilla well compliment this wine’s rich aromatics—a brilliant framing as the result of its threefold oaking regimen.

On the palate this 2008 Crianza is bold and young. Its fruit is big and refined and its grip tremendous. Every element of structure comes together to build a wine that will live an undoubtedly long and healthy life. It will be thrilling to see what elegance this bottling unfolds over the next 8-12 years.

But don’t get me wrong. This wine is curiously accessible--and what a pleasure to indulge in!

As for pairing this wine, and Pesquera Crianza in general, look to hearty, well-done meats in its youth, and simpler, delicate preparations, as the wine gets older. Right now I think it would do well with a well-grilled NY strip steak with a reduced red/green pepper and onion combination. 5 years from now I might look to a basic salt, pepper, and garlic prepped fillet mignon, and ten years from now, a rosemary/olive oil rubbed pork tenderloin.

As far as purchasing this wine, well, there’s some bad news and some good news here.

The Bad News: I’ve just bought up and reviewed, as it might be, our very last bottle of the 2008 Pesquera Crianza.

The Great News: We’ve got an entire case of the 2009 Pesquera Crianza—a wine that is sure to shine. 2009, it turns out, was an even better vintage than 2008 and will ultimately compete with 2004 for the vintage of the decade in Ribera del Duero.

$39.99

http://www.anconaswine.com/sku02774.html#anchor_moreinfo

Wine Review: 2009 Niner Sauvignon Blanc

Wine Review: 2009 Niner Sauvignon Blanc

By Codey Foster

A year ago I would have told you that there is no such thing as stylistically oaked Sauvignon Blanc. I might have even told you that the best Sauvignon Blanc comes from the South Island of New Zealand. Well, I’ve come a long way since then.

I’ll never be one to call New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc one-dimensional but I will maintain that it is spectacularly distinct and consistent. No other wine has ever given blind tasters (including myself) so much satisfaction and I think there’s something to be said for that. A wine that can shout its name and birthplace bottling after bottling is something admirable all on its own. In any case, as with most facets of my wine drinking, my Sauvignon Blanc interests have turned French. Namely Sancerre and white Bordeaux. Although, I must admit, my Bordeaux Sauvignon infatuation is largely endowed to the body, texture, and dimensionality of Semillon, which after all isn’t Sauvignon Blanc. So for the integrity of Sauvignon Blanc I’m more invested in white Sancerre. I guess what I’m getting at is that Sancerre and the 2009 Niner Sauvignon Blanc share some resilient commonalities even if that’s not what I expected when I first approached this bottle.

As far as winemaking, the Niner Sauvignon Blanc is the offspring of a careful, cool fermentation and precision French oaking. Primary fermentation takes place in stainless steel with half of the wine being finished in new and used French oak barrels. It undergoes a mild Malolactic fermentation and is blended for balance and acidity.

In the glass the 9erSB shows a very subtle lemony gold.

On the nose, melon, lemony citrus notes, vanilla, apple, and pears resonate alongside slight mineral, and a touch of honey.

On the palate the Niner is medium-plus bodied, full-flavored, and balanced. Its roundness is well complemented by a vibrant acidity and this is where its similarities with Sancerre become apparent. So often California wines are malo’ed out of every last drop of acidity and are left tasting flat and dull. The Niner, in contrast, maintains both a creamy body and a brilliant acidity as do my favorite Sancerres. Its fruit is persistent even still, bringing crisp apple, lemon peal, and fresh pineapple into the forefront. This is how white wine should be made.

As for food pairings you’re options are nearly endless. Oak and Malolactic fermentation lend this Sauvignon Blanc to cream-based, richer dishes, however its acidity opens it up a handful of classic Sauvignon Blanc pairings. I know I’d appreciate it with some sashimi—especially fatty tuna, salmon, and squid and octopus.

This bottle was a little reminder as to what I love about white wine.

$19.99

http://www.anconaswine.com/sku01805.html#anchor_moreinfo

Wine Review: 2003 Harmand-Geoffroy Mazis-Chambertin

Wine Review: 2003 Harmand-Geoffroy Mazis-Chamertin

By Codey Foster

Sometimes I find that the hardest wines to write about are the ones that I have the most mixed feelings about. The 2003 Harmand-Geoffroy Mazis-Chambertin is one of those wines. I guess with a complex bottling like this it’s easy to find entities in the wine that are quite stunning and others that leave you disappointed. That’s the reality of what we call “complexity” I guess—its elements can be both favorable or unfavorable. Although, in this particular wine I didn’t find any flavor components unfavorable, but a little disappointing perhaps.

Secondly, I’d like to stipulate that, in regards to my own personal taste, I find more and more that there are distinct lines between ‘what I like’, ‘what I think is good/well made’, and ‘what makes me think’. And although wines often span the gaps and overlap the space between these three realms—more often than not I’d prefer to drink a wine that makes me think even if I don’t consider it a great wine. A great Burgundy winemaker who’s name escapes me right now once said that while one of his Morey Grand Crus (I want to say it was Clos de la Roche) is constantly igniting animate conversation, a second Grand Cru (Bonnes-Mares, perhaps?) more often brings fourth silence of respectful admiration. Well in this scenario, I’d rather be drinking the Roche.

That said, I’m not sure where this Grand Cru fits in on my personal preference tasting structure, but I have no doubt that it has made me think. 

Before I begin to describe what it tasted like, as I realize is the purpose of this exercise, I just wanted to take note of the nature of Mazis itself. Mazis actually sits just above Clos de Beze (which sits just above Chambertin) on the west side of the RN74. Its wines are generally quite masculine, show quite deep color, and often come up to par with the Clos de Beze. Its wines are generally known to show more black fruit than red and can often develop for up to a couple of decades in the bottle. Harmand-Geoffroy in fact owns more Mazis than any other producer besides Faiveley. 2003 was an especially fine vintage in the Cote de Nuits—showing especially ripe fruit and spectacular concentration.

This particular version of Mazis is showing very developed, and with its brilliant secondary aromas, I think some of the fruit just got up and left. I guess drinking this bottle really made some of my own commentary from “The Romance of Old Wine” fully resonate with me. And although I’d classify this bottle more on the late end of the ‘of age’ drinking spectrum, it was absolutely apparent that some of its primary flavor components had been traded for secondary aromas—a compromise I’m not always willing to make.

In the glass, this Mazis is a deep, concentrated red with some browns filling in at its center and moderate bricking at the perimeter.

On the nose it shows off what I would dare to call well played brettanomyces--a little bit of a Band-Aidy funk that can sometimes be an outright turn off but with good integration can prove to be seductive and complex, as it does in this wine. Along side the brett comes sweet concentrated and almost syrupy aromas of maraschino cherry and subtle sweet spice. Licorice, plumbs, and black cherry fruit make an entrance, almost as an after thought, but I must stress that fruit profile has really taken a backseat in this winemaking effort and it is really developed funk and earth that takes the limelight.

It’s on the palate that this Burgundy shows Grand Cru character bringing fourth fine, fine layers of tannin and an evident structure for at least several more years in the cellar. And while the fruit is unctuous and concentrated, it is again, more reserved and contained than I hoped for it to be at this period of time. Sometimes the fruit felt a little absent on the back palate—which gives me some indication that this particular wine isn’t showing full Mazis potential. Despite its hollow spots, I still find this wine charming. I really like it, just not in the same way that I appreciate great Burgundy or Mazis-Chambertin for that matter.

Not a complete slam-dunk but an experience for sure—definitely worth the trip for any dedicated Burgundy drinker. I’m still trying to wrap my head around it, if that’s any indication to this wine’s depth.

We’ve got it out for 80.

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